TWO TAKES: July 2010

Mario Epanya is a Cameroon-born fashion photographer who is currently living in Paris. Alongside his work as a photographer he has been campaigning for an African edition of international fashion bible, Vogue. Epanya has created a series of fictional covers for the magazine using exclusively African models. However the magazine’s publisher, Condé Nast, have rejected the proposal, sparking outrage from across the world. Don’t Panic spoke to Epanya about the impact of the decision on African fashion, African women and ideals of beauty.

What was your initial reaction when you heard Condé Nast’s decision to reject your proposition for a Vogue Africa?
Well in a very conservative world, I knew the answer would be negative, but I wanted to have a confirmation of that, at the same time there's no reason to continue the innovation.

What made you decide to do the campaign?
I was tired of seeing titles like, "she was the first black model to ‘grace’ the cover of Vogue.” Tired of seeing this ten times about the same model... ALLO! We're around! We read and we are buyers too... come on! And as I said, one word – DIVERSITY darling, DI-VER-SI-TY!

There are some very successful African models such as Alex Wek and Iman, don’t you think they represent African women in the fashion industry?
Of course, Iman, Alec, Liya… my fierce Naomi (love her) are my girls and they represent black beauty proudly, but that doesn't mean we should stand and clap ours hands because we’ve got ten supermodels – give me a break! And fashion is not only about modelling, there's an industry behind it: designers, shows, advertising, magazines, agencies, photography, beauty, cosmetics, and jewellery.

What’s more, all this creativity has got to be seen and taken to a higher level and I’m sorry, right now only Vogue can do that – no matter what people and haters say – because Vogue is not only a magazine, it's an institution that reveals talent to the world! Look at me – I've been around for almost 15 years now working in fashion. Do you think I'll be here today answering to your questions if I did not mention Vogue!? Vogue makes miracles ok?

You are a beauty photographer – from your experience why do you think the fashion industry is so preoccupied with ideals of white beauty, when it is an industry based on innovation and new ideas?
Well, well, well, tough question, but I’ll try to answer it in a very simple way. I think it's political. The market was made for the Western countries, and people were always taught things will never change, but the fact is that the world is changing. China, Brazil, India, South Africa are the new market, with trillions of people, with different cultures. The big question is: do they want Western culture or their own? I think culture is about sharing for a better culture don't you?

Do you think Vogue Africa would be relevant to the native population?
Vogue Africa is just a symbol dedicated to all people of African descent no matter where they are: Africa, America, Australia, Europe, West Indies, Brazil, Jamaica...We all have the same Motherland.

If you could put anyone on the cover of Vogue who would it be?
A group of black women readers from every part of the world.

Checkout the Full Interview taken from http://dontpaniconline.com/magazine/style/racism-in-fashion-surely-not